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You are here -> Lifestyle / Fashion Saturday, 22 November, 2008
PLANETNOTION TELEVISION!
CAMERA-FOLK AND FILM EDITORS WANTED!
Planet Notion is looking for guys and dolls to film and edit features for its new TV channel, PNTV. Accompanying Notion to artist interviews, gigs, fashion shows, festivals and international events, you will be skilled, passionate and full of ideas about how to produce shit-hot video content. Camera-folk will be experienced and ideally have their own equipment, or at least access to equipment, while editors must be able to turn projects around quickly, and with stylistic flare. If you can both film and edit content, we would especially like to hear from you! These casual, unpaid positions would be ideal for those looking to develop their showreels, and to get the chance to travel, film major artists and top events.
 
Please email lucy(at)musichqmedia
(dot)com if you’re interested in getting involved, cheers!
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Fly53
Pharrel, Diddy, Wu Tang, Gwen Stefani, the list goes on. In recent history the queue of musicians willing to attach their name to a collection of generic hoodies, t-shirts and jeans has had no shortage of, err, queuer-uppers. But what about the other way – designers getting into music? Welcome to the world of Fly53, a clothing company expanding at its own rate and on its own terms. They’re now complimenting their fashion ranges with ‘Fly By Night’ touring gig nights, while always staying true to their mantra of being ‘Outfitters For The Resistance.’ Music and a refusal to follow trends have always been at the centre of Fly53. In 1994 the company was producing band T-shirts for festivals, but they soon realised that there wasn’t a company, as they put it, ‘representing street culture.’ When their first collection of unique T-shirts sold out, and a second quickly followed suit, they decided to move the brand in that direction. Since then the company has maintained the underground ethos and grown steadily. And music has taken the brand to heart. Those who have been ‘outfitted’ by the label include some of the best and brightest across all genres. From trip hop, house and indie rock to the latest fabricated dance-rock crossover, these clothes know no boundaries. You’re as likely to see Liam Gallagher’s simian swagger encased in Fly53 as you are Hot Chip’s awkward, robotic shuffle. Collections include everything you could possibly want from a brand. From head to toe, a gentleman – or lady – can be covered by garments containing a subtly embroidered Fly53 emblem. But, lest we forget, it all began with printed T-shirts. And it’s these which still form the backbone of the Fly53 brand’s success. A quick glance over this spring’s offerings shows the logo interwoven into many of the iconic images of the 20th century. Take the hammer and sickle – the Soviets’ glorified, symbol of the strength of a unified peasantry and industrial workforce. It’s now been contorted to include the Fly53’s lightning and grain logo, itself a representation of the brand following its own path while always retaining a distinct element of mystery. And it’s this mystery which is entrenched in the associated story of a Bolivian kickball-playing ‘wolf man’, who after touring with the 80s metal sect is kidnapped, only to re-appear many years later as a florist in Kidderminster. Surreal tales aside, nothing is too sacred to deny it the Fly53 graphical print treatment. From a host of socialist symbolisms to yellow submarines, Blaxploitation and Rainbow, anything goes. But the one constant is always the undercurrent of defiance and willing conflict. ‘It comes from our interest in underground sub-cultures, and our tagline, ‘Outfitters For The Resistance’ sums it up,’ says Will. And further emphasising their DIY ethos, one of their first T-shirt collections was named 53R135 after the Letraset characters which adorned the pages of the punk and indie fanzines the design pair read in the 80s. Growth has now reached the point where the Somerset shed, in which the first T-shirts were hand printed, has had to be abandoned like so many discovered rebel hideouts. As with most fashion designers times have occasionally been tough, but the firm recently secured investment from Gola, which Will has described as ‘essential for the brand to progress to the next level.’ But purists shouldn’t fear, occasionally bigger can be better, and the brand certainly won’t be abandoning its punk roots. The new, larger Fly53 has had the opportunity to expand into the world of music, with a succession of gig nights, including acts such as Dirty Pretty Things, The Futureheads and Pink Grease. Future dates will continue to include more cutting edge artists. Finally though, despite their association with subversion and resistance, a sad omission from their collection is the classic French beret. Still, with what is on offer – and perhaps in a deliberate semi-ironic twist – any prolonged resistance on the punters’ part is surely futile. www.fly53.com Words: Tom Lewis
tags: | fly53 | pharrell | diddy | wu tang | more...
Big Fluff
Run out of a small second floor office in N16 is the clothing label Big Fluff. Surrounded by a collection of hand-printed tees and hoodies and fuelled by a nearly endless supply of tea, designer Azhar sits, fighting the gargantuan buying power of the high street stores. A high street all too willing to market cheap copycat designs in the name of competition. But individuality is his byword in both design and technique, so despite the competition he continues to thrive, grow and carve out his niche. WHAT IS IT ABOUT THE HUMBLE T-SHIRT THAT LENDS ITSELF TO DESIGN? They've been a fashion staplefor decades, they suit everyone, and the designpossibilities are endless! T-shirts can reallymake a statement - they can be striking andsophisticated, insulting or they can make youlaugh out loud. WHAT IS YOUR FAVOURITE T-SHIRT LIKE? Of my own designs? Well, they’re all good! Against my better judgement, I recently made my first slogan T-shirt. It says 'I cut my own hair' and it’s fluorescent! I never thought I'd do anything with a slogan, but nobody believed that I do actually cut my own hair, so I thought I’d make a fucking T-shirt to prove it! IS IT TOUGH STAYING AFLOAT AS A SMALL, INDEPENDENT LABEL? It can be a struggle as a T-shirt label – the competition is very tough. Thehigh street shops are so quick to pick up on trends and styles. Everyone loves a bargain but peoplealso appreciate good design and are willing to paya premium for something that’s had real work put into it - and that they won't see ten other peoplewearing everyday! My process of printing helpsas it allows me to achieve results that can’t bedone using conventional methods. I also work with other garments such as fleece-lined cardigans and knitted jumpers which sets me apart from the general T-shirt designing crowd. WHICH CELEBRITY WOULD YOU MOST LIKE TO DESIGN A T-SHIRT FOR? I would love to get Lemmy into a hotpink polka dot T-shirt! TELL US ABOUT YOUR INVOLVEMENT WITH MEDICINS SANS FRONTIERS? They are working on somethingso basic and so vital - the provision of healthcare,medicine and sanitation. These are such basicthings for us in the West that we take them forgranted, but their lacking affects so many peopleon a day to day basis. If you take you have to give- I’m not a preacher, I just think that so much morecould be done with a bit of compromise. Just take less and give more! ( www.msf.org ) WHAT WAS THE FIRST T-SHIRT DESIGN YOU CAME UP WITH - HOW OLD WERE YOU? The first time I made a T-shirt was around 5 years ago, so I was 24! There was a one day 'exhibition' where artists had a stallin Spitalfields market and a friend asked me to join him on his stall. I decided to make a load of Tshirts,all with 'T-shirt' written on them in different ways - 'T-shirt' T-shirts! I did one with cigarette burns all over it and some American guy bought it. WHAT HAS YOUR BEST SELLER BEEN SO FAR? My stag design called 'Trophy' has been really popular, and even though it's been ripped off by a couple of very well known shops it continues to sell well. I don’t produce stuff for a particular market; cool kids from Hoxton buy the same designs as middle aged ladies in Hampstead. I like that! ARE THERE ANY BIG BRANDS THAT YOU LIKE OR IS IT ALL ABOUT THE INDEPENDENTS? I don't tend to drawmuch inspiration from big brands but like mostpeople these days, I mix and match and just buy what I like. I've just got a great hoodie from thedesigner Michiko Koshino, and another one from H&M. I like them both equally! WOULD YOU EXPERIMENT WITH MATERIAL OTHER THAN COTTON? Definitely. I've printed on loadsof different fabrics like denim, rayon and modalwood fibres. It's tricky as a small label to gethold of stuff though - factories want you to orderthousands of items at a time which is impossible,and small runs can be prohibitively expensive. I’verecently started sourcing organic cotton and I’vebeen experimenting with sustainable bambooyarn which is silky soft and almost translucent,it drapes over the body like liquid! TELL US A LITTLE ABOUT THE DESIGN PROCESS FROM START TO FINISH... They're hand printed, handpainted and every one is different. It's a really lowtech process. I cut stencils, woodblocks and thenprint away! I’ve gotta keep a few secrets though oreveryone will be doing it. WWW.BIGFLUFF.COM TEXT: TOM LEWIS
tags: | big fluff | n16 | azhar | hoodies | more...
Sin
tags: | sin | mark cant | photography | more...
Libidex
Simon Rose designs latex fetish wear for first timers and rubberists alike. Spray 'em on and peel 'em off, just don't forget the talcum powder and try not to sweat! If things do get a bit messy, you’ll find the Perv-o-Shine product along with his whole collection on www.libidex .com . WHEN DID YOU START DESIGNING FETISH CLOTHING? I've always designed rubber clothes, ever since I wrapped myself in a rubber blanket and wore my father's gas mask and danced around when I was a child. OK then - about 15 years really! WHY 'LIBIDEX'? It's a mixture of 'libido' and 'latex' - it was thought up by my friend who started the business. But we've called our shop in Covent Garden 'Liberation' - which rolls off the tongue a bit more easily. HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN GOING TO FETISH NIGHTS? The first one I can remember was the Rubber Ball in 1992 (when I was only 10 of course!) - it was the night Jean-Paul Gaultier and Right Said Fred turned up. IS LATEX AND RUBBER CLOTHING YOUR FETISH? I do love latex clothing - though it's just one of my many fetishes! WHAT'S THE MOST OUTRAGEOUS OUTFIT YOU'VE EVER WORN TO A FETISH NIGHT? All my outfits get pretty outrageous, but I think the best was 'Spotty Man' - a full enclosure number in white rubber with inflated breasts covered in spots on 12 inch platforms, with an inflated doughnut headpiece. My tribute to Leigh Bowery. ARE FETISH CLUBS MORE ABOUT THE FASHION THAN THE MUSIC OR EXPERIENCE TO YOU? OR DOES YOUR OUTFIT DETERMINE THE EXPERIENCE YOU HAVE? As Wagner would have said (if he’d ever been to a fetish club) it's a Gesamtkunstwerk - for me it’s the whole experience - but wearing a fab outfit always increases the pleasure. IS DRESSING UP ONE OF THE MOST LIBERATING THINGS AN ADULT CAN DO? If it’s the right outfit for you then yes - but sometimes people just get it wrong and that's very unliberating. HOW LONG HAVE YOU BEEN DRESSING UP? Ever since I played the first sheep in the nativity play. I came from a large family with a military father and we were always putting on shows – we were a bit like the Von Trapps. So I’ve always enjoyed dressing up! DO YOU WEAR FABRIC TROUSERS VERY OFTEN? Well I do actually - running a business while wearing a latex catsuit would be a bit sweaty! DO YOU PREFER WORKING WITH LATEX OR RUBBER? Don't want to get technical, but latex and rubber are basically the same thing! And I tend to use the words interchangeably. IS THERE A PARTICULAR QUALITY TO THESE MATERIALS THAT YOU MUST TAKE INTO ACCOUNT WHEN DESIGNING CLOTHES OUT OF THEM? You have to make allowances for the stretchiness - it has to be made a bit smaller than the stated size, and a lot of people don't understand that. WHERE DO YOU SOURCE YOUR LATEX AND RUBBER? Pretty much every company gets its sheet latex from 4D, a company in the UK - they specialise in making this kind of latex for the fashion industry. HOW MANY PEOPLE ARE BUSY IN YOUR WORKSHOP - CAN YOU DESCRIBE THE DESIGN PROCESS FROM START TO FINISH? We have about 4 people in our workshop, and we keep them pretty busy. As for the design process - I am allowed some secrets! HOW DO YOU CLEAN LATEX AND RUBBER - IS IT WIPE-DOWN?! There’s a special latex cleaner we use - sometimes called 'Perv-o-Shine' - which gives a very good finish, but you can also use soap and water. For a really high gloss shine, you can use silicon spray. But don't ever use oil - or the clothes will fall off you and disintegrate! TELL US ABOUT THE MOST EXCITING TIMES YOU’VE SEEN YOUR DESIGNS BEING WORN?! It's always exciting to see them worn by celebs - we've done stuff for Oasis, Eminem, Caprice, Rachel Weisz and so on. But I think the most exciting thing is to see one of our custom made outfits delighting the customer (especially if it's the first time they've worn rubber!). WHO WOULD YOU MOST LIKE TO DESIGN A FETISH OUTFIT FOR? Maggie Thatcher - there's a woman with some dark and devilish thoughts. DO YOU EVER ENVISAGE THE ACTIVITIES YOUR DESIGNS WILL EVENTUALLY CLOTHE; THE EXPERIENCES THEY WILL ABSORB OR FUNCTION AS THE UNIFORM TO?! I often find it hard to imagine what our customers get up to in some of the outfits we make for them...for example the man who ordered a latex horse outfit...! WHAT INFLUENCES OR INSPIRES YOUR DESIGNS, ASIDE FROM THE FETISH SCENE? All sorts of things - Club freaks, men in uniform, Bettie Page and designers like Jean Paul Gaultier, Terry Mugler, even historic fashions for example Victorian. I suppose you could say I’m very eclectic. DO YOU ENJOY TWISTING TRADITIONAL GARMENTS - PENCIL SKIRTS, SHIRTS - INTO SOMETHING NAUGHTY OR FETISH? I do a lot of classic designs, but the fact that you can make a pin-stripe suit out of latex for example is kinky in itself. All my stuff tends to have a bit of a naughty twist to it. WHERE DO YOU FIND INSPIRATION FOR THE ENCLOSED HOOD DESIGNS WITH CHARACTERS, ANIMALS OR EXPRESSIONS DECORATING THEM? Quite often from my nightmares! I get a lot of it from things like Expressionist art, Pop art, even high Gothic artists like Fuseli. Or I just look at some of my friends...! TELL US ABOUT THE PERFORMANCE WORK YOU DO AT FETISH NIGHTS? I think some people take their fetish too seriously, so I like to send the scene up a bit. None of my shows are ever what you'd call a straight fashion show - they always involve a lot of mad antics such as girls bursting out of huge inflated rubber balls and things - Libidex has quite a reputation for it! WHERE DOES THE CONCEPT BEGIN FOR A PERFORMANCE AND ITS OUTFIT? It might start from something like an interesting pair of shoes I see in a shop or a piece of music - or if someone gives me a theme, I immediately want to subvert it and see the unconventional way of interpreting it. WHAT IS THE FUTURE OF FETISH? WILL IT EVER CROSS OVER INTO THE MAINSTREAM? It's getting quite mainstream on the surface - lots of people now take fetish in their stride, but I think there’s still a deep dark core who will always think it's their special thing... WHAT IS YOUR ULTIMATE FANTASY? Being in a rubber sack with Angelina Jolie (and Brad!) HOW WOULD YOU PERSUADE SOMEONE TO WEAR LATEX? Tie them up first - but with most of them the problem is getting them not to wear it! To see and try on the gear for real, head to Liberation, 49 Shelton St, Covent Garden, London, WC2H 9HE. Map. Words: Lucy Wilson
tags: | libidex | simon rose | fetish | more...
Coco De Mer
'Pleasure is a gift... and great pleasure determines the quality of your life.' SAM RODDICK When explorers of the past washed up on the shores of the Seychelles, they came across a piece of nature that led them to believe that they had stumbled across the Forbidden Fruit of the biblical Garden of Eden. Scattered along the tropical beaches were palm seeds that were similar to the female form, each reflecting the front and bottom area of the pelvis which made the men reminisce about the women they had left behind at home. What they had discovered was actually an extremely rare seed of the sea, otherwise known as the 'coco de mer.' Having originated from the stamen of a plantthat bears an uncanny resemblance to a penis,the heavy seed is a true symbol of masculinityand femininity. Found on only two islands in theSeychelles, this representation of sexual naturebecame the inspiration for London based eroticemporium Coco de Mer. Identifying the beauty of the natural world with herupmarket brand, Sam Roddick has built the cult Covent Garden store and mail order service around the beliefs she was raised with. The daughter of the Bodyshop founder Anita Roddick has incorporated her environmentally conscious ethos into her work, with Coco De Mer investing in the talents of local artistes and adhering to strict fair trade guidelines on imported products. Committed to enabling individuals to use sex as an instrument to transform their own existence, she invites them to bring more excitement, imagination, debate, life and texture to their world. Her products may be costly, but everything that comes from the store is guaranteed to give a highly glamorous and exclusive feel to the user. For instance, a feathery 'Quiver Crop' will set you back £225, whilst a leather moulded mask bears a £105 price tag. But it's not all for the sexually adventurous. Empowering singletons and couples in the bedroom department, Coco De Mer offers an education for the client who is not so confident with 'salons,' that take place in the store or at home. Claiming this service to be the essence of the company, these lessons in the art of loving hark back to the social gatherings of the Eighteenth Century where debauchery, entertainment and intellectual debate would be on the agenda at the 'grandes salons' of private residencies. Relentlessly striving to explore and excite with an underlying theme of education, Coco De Mer is a million miles away from the PVC glare of the high street sex shop, cackling hen parties and wipe clean Ann Summer's style nurses outfits. From finely crafted glass dildos and diamante nipple tassels to horse hair whips and classic erotic fiction, Coco de Mer has sex down to a fine art. The rich material of Coco De Mer's elegant wrap dresses and silky camis may seem innocent enough, but the peep knickers and body bondage attire are saucy enough to make even the most fervent fan of strip tease blush! Customers also have the luxury of being able to tease long distance lovers and tempt partners with the infamous in house confessional style peep show dressing rooms. Building on the peepholes that already gave shoppers a fair amount of fun; a larger gilt picture framed one has recently been installed with graphic design to encapsulate that signature Coco De Mer style sense of fun and humour. This new retail concept allows lingerie clad ladies to email images of themselves to a special person of their choice, with one of the dressing rooms being equipped with a touch screen monitor and a webcam. From there, pictures can be uploaded from the store direct to the private 'After Hours' members area of the Coco De Mer website and then onto anyone the user wishes along with a 'little message of love'. At Coco De Mer, sexy treats are to be indulged in all year long - not just for Valentines Day! Like an expert lover Coco De Mer will have you coming back for more! www.coco-de-mer.co.uk WORDS: LAUREN TONES
tags: | coco de mer | sam roddick | more...
Pussy Glamore
When Lady Isabella Hervey modelled a bikini good enough to eat last year, everyone was reminded of the treats on offer at Pussy Glamore. Made entirely of sweets with a whopping £5000 price tag, the 30,000 calorie two-piece illustrated the innovative talents of nineteen year old entrepreneur Marissa Montgomery. Launching and designing for her label whilst studying for an English and Drama degree at Goldsmith’s University, her decadent underwear range has generated quite a celebrity following. But it's not just the likes of rock royalty Leah Wood, Elizabeth Jagger and Peaches Geldof that can get their hands on the girly wear, as the collection has just been launched in London’s Selfridges and Topshop, as well as the latter's online outlet. Perhaps it's Pussy Glamore's alluring campaigns that have contributed to the label's title of being the smart girl’s choice of underwear. With past and present campaigns fronted by models-of-the-moment Felicity Gilbert and Abigail Clancy respectively, the talented team behind both of Pussy Glamore's playful, feminine campaigns are also highly sought after. PG is shot by rocker-turned-photographer Bryan Adams, with packaging illustrations by Rose Blake (daughter of Britpop artist Peter) and it’s all backed by leading UK lingerie manufacturer Sterling Group, who are known for supplying Marks and Spencer, Gap and Knickerbox. Not bad for an idea that grew from a childhood hobby! Following on from the timeless pieces that warmed Winter '05, Pussy Glamore's latest Autumn/Winter '06-'07 line embraces the natural shape of the female form. Consisting of three capsules titled 'Bow She Ain't No Ho', 'Bone Collector' and 'Royal Erotica,' Montgomery takes inspiration from past and present to give something for every girl that doesn't mind joining a lengthy online waiting list. 'Bow She Ain’t No Ho' gives traditional lace and sophisticated silk a sexy twist, 'Bone Collector' includes delicate boned separates embellished with pirate inspired skull and crossbones icons, whilst 'Royal Erotica' uses crown emblems that will make you feel just like a princess. With prices starting at an affordable £25 there's no excuse for not updating your drawers! www.pussyglamore.co.uk WORDS: LAUREN TONES
tags: | pussy glamore | lady isabella hervey | more...
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